17 posts tagged selvege
before the wash:
Left Field NYC greaser selvege denim jeans
the 3rd photo is a comparison to the original color from a trimmed hem
Left Field Greaser jeans at 77 wears, looking good, feeling even better
farm tactics. round a corner and you run into the guy who designs your favorite shirts…
WIWT, urban canyon, chilly mornings, any excuse. USN peacoat 17$ thrifted Lanvin jacket 40$ thrifted Left Field greaser jeans and Septieme Largeur suede tassle loafers
Steve, Spring St, simple, SS, S/S
Thousand Yard Style x Den.m Bar, 1 of 1.
It’s been a thrill watching J and my bespoke jeans transformed from ideas, to individual patterns, roughs and finally yesterday our own fully finished, completely unique pairs of jeans by the guys at Den.m bar. If your interested in the process, want a little education on getting a proper fit and silhouette, or just a denim geek, then check out the links below for the story from start to finish.
P.S-did I say finish? Time to break these bad boys in! Age progression, as it progresses……
Steve of Den.m Bar, passing off our jeans. It’s gotta be hard to let them go…
Den.m bar final fitting: Even though this isn’t exactly my first pair of selvage jeans it was my first experience with bespoke tailoring and I really felt like I got as much out of it as J did. It was a true pleasure to see my input and direction matched by the guys at Den.m bar with enthusiasm and skill.
I went with a fit that would be versatile, keeping away from the skinny girlfriend jean look and making sure the rise was fairly high so I could wear these with a jacket and not feel out of proportion. Its a difficult and personal thing to verbalize, but for me a pair of pants should stick to you profile but not cling to your body.
Since I’m wearing mostly desert boots this summer I had them hemmed wearing a pair, the nice thing about this cuffing trend is that it gives some room to play around with length. I’ll wear mine for a week and find what works best, then if necessary, have them hemmed again. Over all after the first fitting I felt these were spot on, no overly tight areas, perfectly cut through the waist and no awkward bunching or bagginess.
I’m thinking a dual age progression with J is looming in the future..
The final fitting: J tried on his Den.m bar bespoke jeans for the first time. Notice even on a bigger athletic guy some tapering in the leg is still important, two inches from the thigh to the leg opening works for most people, that coming from Flusser’s Making The Man. Also with cuffs or those english vegetables, turnups, its critical to make sure they are cut to a length that works with a majority of the shoes you wear. On the first fitting J wore his boots and had the hems cut a little longer to work with sneakers as well, judging by the pictures he did pretty well.
from J: “They nailed the length perfectly, I wanted an all around pair that would look good with low cut vans as well as boots, and they did it…the fit feels better than any jean i’ve tried….but I’m not use to the stiffness of the fabric yet. Kinda like a hot chick who is a cold bitch at first, but once you get to know her…”
A bad fit: This post is going to be referenced later on, and should be a good visual on things to watch out for when getting a pair of jeans, or any other kind of pant for that matter. These are Sugarcane 66’s, which I have had for about a year. I wear them only when I’m doing serious riding, and can vouch for Sugarcane’s strength. I bailed out wearing these doing about 20-30, wrecked my shifter pedal, gashed up my throttle lever, gearbox cover, boots, did a number on my jacket sleeve, and lost all my cool guy points. My jeans were, with the exception of some fading on the knee, fine, and truly saved my ass. The quality is exceptional, variated stitches, hidden rivets, bar tacking, not to mention they smell great (crushed sugar cane…) and have a stunning color to them.
However this doesn’t make up for the fact that they fit me terribly.
-Hip flare. From the side there is excess fabric in the seat and across to the pockets which causes them to flare out (sometimes referred to as elephant ears).
-Profile. Over all profile could be slimmer, but the taper is enough to make them wearable.
-As a white guy, the last thing I want attention on is my butt, or lack there of, and it’s made even more akward by the looseness seen in the rest of the leg.
-Hemmed too high. This one is my bad, but I had them hemmed while wearing boots, and now they break way too high on anything else I wear.
$300 lesson learned, make no mistake these are great jeans, just not on me. So the next time your looking of for a good pair of jeans make sure you look in the mirror first…