16 posts tagged jeans
and after the wash
Left Field NYC selvege denim jeans, 1 year, 147 wears, 1 wash, and only getting better
Left Field Greaser jeans at 77 wears, looking good, feeling even better
A year ago I bought these Russel Moccasins at the Stronghold, 220$ was allot for a casual non goodyear welted sole, but they had the most pleasing design of any casual summer shoe I had seen, and I needed an egress route from the world of flip flops. A year later I’m still happy with my choice, the styling of the shoe is less jarring than either a traditional boat shoe or moccasin. Thought It is still a clunky casual shoe, and nothing I could wear with a formal outfit, it is much more tolerable than the contrast sole and stitching of a boat shoe, or the feminine fopishness of moccasin, I’ve even gotten on board with the beef roll upper. But in the end, what sold me then and pleases me now is that they moose-hide sole can be re-soled by Russel Moccasin and the unparalleled comfort of a broken in soft constructed leather shoe in the summer. And big points as always for on old all American brand.
Steve, Spring St, simple, SS, S/S
James, gap selvedge, 2 years, 4 washes
Thousand Yard Style x Den.m Bar, 1 of 1.
It’s been a thrill watching J and my bespoke jeans transformed from ideas, to individual patterns, roughs and finally yesterday our own fully finished, completely unique pairs of jeans by the guys at Den.m bar. If your interested in the process, want a little education on getting a proper fit and silhouette, or just a denim geek, then check out the links below for the story from start to finish.
P.S-did I say finish? Time to break these bad boys in! Age progression, as it progresses……
Steve of Den.m Bar, passing off our jeans. It’s gotta be hard to let them go…
Den.m bar final fitting: Even though this isn’t exactly my first pair of selvage jeans it was my first experience with bespoke tailoring and I really felt like I got as much out of it as J did. It was a true pleasure to see my input and direction matched by the guys at Den.m bar with enthusiasm and skill.
I went with a fit that would be versatile, keeping away from the skinny girlfriend jean look and making sure the rise was fairly high so I could wear these with a jacket and not feel out of proportion. Its a difficult and personal thing to verbalize, but for me a pair of pants should stick to you profile but not cling to your body.
Since I’m wearing mostly desert boots this summer I had them hemmed wearing a pair, the nice thing about this cuffing trend is that it gives some room to play around with length. I’ll wear mine for a week and find what works best, then if necessary, have them hemmed again. Over all after the first fitting I felt these were spot on, no overly tight areas, perfectly cut through the waist and no awkward bunching or bagginess.
I’m thinking a dual age progression with J is looming in the future..
The final fitting: J tried on his Den.m bar bespoke jeans for the first time. Notice even on a bigger athletic guy some tapering in the leg is still important, two inches from the thigh to the leg opening works for most people, that coming from Flusser’s Making The Man. Also with cuffs or those english vegetables, turnups, its critical to make sure they are cut to a length that works with a majority of the shoes you wear. On the first fitting J wore his boots and had the hems cut a little longer to work with sneakers as well, judging by the pictures he did pretty well.
from J: “They nailed the length perfectly, I wanted an all around pair that would look good with low cut vans as well as boots, and they did it…the fit feels better than any jean i’ve tried….but I’m not use to the stiffness of the fabric yet. Kinda like a hot chick who is a cold bitch at first, but once you get to know her…”
Bobby’s, 1st fitting at Den.m Bar
Putting on my pair for the first fitting was a strange experience, it’s an adjustment putting on an unfinished garment and verbalizing what you think needs to be done to perfect them. Like any bespoke garment, the first fitting is going to be a loosely stitched “rough draft” of the finished product, as drastic changes are expected and it’s easier to remove excess and nearly impossible to add length. I had the width of the leg and waist taken in and the crotch adjusted. What I’ve come to look for in any pair of pants is a clean profile, a proper waist/rise, and to always make sure the pockets, both front and rear aren’t overly stretched or ballooning out, a common problem with the slim fit trend.
While Zack (Den.m Bar’s fitter) is a true professional and knew all the right questions to ask, it’s important to head into a fitting with a mental checklist, both of what can and can’t be altered and what the proper fit and silhouette look like on you. While you can count on a bespoke tailor to guide you, keep in mind each tailor is going to have their own style and they are going to make suggestions in tune with that.
J’ has been a good friend of mine for a while now, and the only guy I would ever let near me with a tattoo gun. We bounce ideas off each other all the time and somewhere in one of those exchanges came the topic of jeans. I take it as a sign of good taste that he has been looking for a solid pair of selvege denim for months now and found nothing that suits him. The current skinny/narrow leg style doesn’t fit J’s character or build. Muy-Thai, tattooing, and chopper riding aren’t conducive to skinny jeans and neither is J. So he went with a traditional fit with only a slight taper at the leg and a heavier denim (14.5 Nihon Menpu). The only flash is in the pocket bags J’ chose, and the leather patch he took home to tool up himself. More on that later..