10 posts tagged bespoke
Thousand Yard Style x Den.m Bar, 1 of 1.
It’s been a thrill watching J and my bespoke jeans transformed from ideas, to individual patterns, roughs and finally yesterday our own fully finished, completely unique pairs of jeans by the guys at Den.m bar. If your interested in the process, want a little education on getting a proper fit and silhouette, or just a denim geek, then check out the links below for the story from start to finish.
P.S-did I say finish? Time to break these bad boys in! Age progression, as it progresses……
Steve of Den.m Bar, passing off our jeans. It’s gotta be hard to let them go…
Den.m bar final fitting: Even though this isn’t exactly my first pair of selvage jeans it was my first experience with bespoke tailoring and I really felt like I got as much out of it as J did. It was a true pleasure to see my input and direction matched by the guys at Den.m bar with enthusiasm and skill.
I went with a fit that would be versatile, keeping away from the skinny girlfriend jean look and making sure the rise was fairly high so I could wear these with a jacket and not feel out of proportion. Its a difficult and personal thing to verbalize, but for me a pair of pants should stick to you profile but not cling to your body.
Since I’m wearing mostly desert boots this summer I had them hemmed wearing a pair, the nice thing about this cuffing trend is that it gives some room to play around with length. I’ll wear mine for a week and find what works best, then if necessary, have them hemmed again. Over all after the first fitting I felt these were spot on, no overly tight areas, perfectly cut through the waist and no awkward bunching or bagginess.
I’m thinking a dual age progression with J is looming in the future..
The final fitting: J tried on his Den.m bar bespoke jeans for the first time. Notice even on a bigger athletic guy some tapering in the leg is still important, two inches from the thigh to the leg opening works for most people, that coming from Flusser’s Making The Man. Also with cuffs or those english vegetables, turnups, its critical to make sure they are cut to a length that works with a majority of the shoes you wear. On the first fitting J wore his boots and had the hems cut a little longer to work with sneakers as well, judging by the pictures he did pretty well.
from J: “They nailed the length perfectly, I wanted an all around pair that would look good with low cut vans as well as boots, and they did it…the fit feels better than any jean i’ve tried….but I’m not use to the stiffness of the fabric yet. Kinda like a hot chick who is a cold bitch at first, but once you get to know her…”
Bobby’s, 1st fitting at Den.m Bar
Putting on my pair for the first fitting was a strange experience, it’s an adjustment putting on an unfinished garment and verbalizing what you think needs to be done to perfect them. Like any bespoke garment, the first fitting is going to be a loosely stitched “rough draft” of the finished product, as drastic changes are expected and it’s easier to remove excess and nearly impossible to add length. I had the width of the leg and waist taken in and the crotch adjusted. What I’ve come to look for in any pair of pants is a clean profile, a proper waist/rise, and to always make sure the pockets, both front and rear aren’t overly stretched or ballooning out, a common problem with the slim fit trend.
While Zack (Den.m Bar’s fitter) is a true professional and knew all the right questions to ask, it’s important to head into a fitting with a mental checklist, both of what can and can’t be altered and what the proper fit and silhouette look like on you. While you can count on a bespoke tailor to guide you, keep in mind each tailor is going to have their own style and they are going to make suggestions in tune with that.
J again for his first fitting at Den.m Bar, he came in wearing his new deadstock Wolverines, which I will cover later.
Without going into too much detail its important when trying something on or having it altered, to gear your outfit towards what you would normally wear with the garment. In the case of pants wearing the shoes you would pair with them is critical so you can have them hemmed to break properly. J decided to bring in the waist slightly and let out the area around his pockets, but the rest of the fit was spot on for him. Keep in mind what is currently popular might not work for you, you should always follow your own body before the latest trend.
Went back to the guys at Den.m Bar on thursday for our fitting, this place runs like an open kitchen with the seamstresses at the front of the shop, its a fascinating process to watch. Also with our favorite photographer Bri departing for U of O I’ve stepped up to the camera plate, I apologize in advance
J’ has been a good friend of mine for a while now, and the only guy I would ever let near me with a tattoo gun. We bounce ideas off each other all the time and somewhere in one of those exchanges came the topic of jeans. I take it as a sign of good taste that he has been looking for a solid pair of selvege denim for months now and found nothing that suits him. The current skinny/narrow leg style doesn’t fit J’s character or build. Muy-Thai, tattooing, and chopper riding aren’t conducive to skinny jeans and neither is J. So he went with a traditional fit with only a slight taper at the leg and a heavier denim (14.5 Nihon Menpu). The only flash is in the pocket bags J’ chose, and the leather patch he took home to tool up himself. More on that later..
Some highlights from the first fitting.
At a certain point in the pursuit of anything it becomes necessary to either have something made to your specifications or make it yourself. Something that has always frustrated me is trying to find anything (a jacket, shoes, or jeans) that has all the details I like, is styled to my tastes and —most importantly — fits. The world of denim is hyper-focused on details, quality and construction. Everyone has their preferences; denim weight, stitch count and variance, type and number of buttons used. For me it has always been a trade off between my ideal style of jeans and finding a pair that fits well. If your $500 limited edition, 32 oz left hand twill Ironhearts, hand dyed by 100 Okinawa virgins don’t fit well, you would have done better to have saved your money, gone to Levis and found a pair that fit.
If you’re removed from a major city the search is even harder: Without trying on the merchandis you find yourself in a grey zone of measurement and comparison. The logical solution, and next step in the growing worldwide interest in denim, is for bespoke and made-to-measure makers to step forward. Shops have already opened in SF, and NY, and now LA has its own with Den.m bar’s opening a few months ago.
“Bespoke” needs some clarification before we go on. Five years ago the word was nearly forgotten, and now its used and abused everywhere, nearly a meaningless catch phrase. Bespoke doesn’t mean customer chosen details or fabric, or a choice in style/ silhouette, or even a garment that is made to your measurments. It is a garment made completely to the customers specification, the materials used, style or silhouette he requests, and whatever details he might ask for. An argument can be made that many bespoke tailors won’t drastically alter their house silhouette to suit a customer’s wishes. When I can afford a trip to Saville Row, we can have that conversation.
I have a few pairs of selvege jeans that work for everyday, so I wanted to go for something that would look good at night, dressed up with a jacket. I went with a slim leg, no coin pockets (so not technically jeans), subdued stitching, a higher rise and a zipper over buttons to keep the pant front flat. All this wrapped up in a Nishinbo 13.5 ounce selvege denim, darker, sleeker, and not too hot for summer. J’s pair is following tomorrow, for you traditionalists out there…
Even L.A can be a small place sometimes. A friend, photographer/cinematographer/caffiend/and fellow cafe racer enthusiast tapped me to do the styling for his next project, he had worked with the guys at Den.m Bar before and suggested we use their Jeans. As the first bespoke denim maker in L.A I was excited to see what they could do and if they lived up to the bespoke tittle. Another good friend J,(our go to for tattoos) came along for his pair to be used in the shoot and I dragged Bri with her camera along as well. Transparency time, we traded the two pairs we will use for the shoot in exchange for a review here, saved the budget, helped out a small business, and you get a review. Everybody wins.