15 posts tagged bespoke
A stroll to Savile Row
if your going to go tie-less…
Boateng in a sea of grey
Thousand Yard Style x Den.m Bar, 1 of 1.
It’s been a thrill watching J and my bespoke jeans transformed from ideas, to individual patterns, roughs and finally yesterday our own fully finished, completely unique pairs of jeans by the guys at Den.m bar. If your interested in the process, want a little education on getting a proper fit and silhouette, or just a denim geek, then check out the links below for the story from start to finish.
P.S-did I say finish? Time to break these bad boys in! Age progression, as it progresses……
Steve of Den.m Bar, passing off our jeans. It’s gotta be hard to let them go…
Den.m bar final fitting: Even though this isn’t exactly my first pair of selvage jeans it was my first experience with bespoke tailoring and I really felt like I got as much out of it as J did. It was a true pleasure to see my input and direction matched by the guys at Den.m bar with enthusiasm and skill.
I went with a fit that would be versatile, keeping away from the skinny girlfriend jean look and making sure the rise was fairly high so I could wear these with a jacket and not feel out of proportion. Its a difficult and personal thing to verbalize, but for me a pair of pants should stick to you profile but not cling to your body.
Since I’m wearing mostly desert boots this summer I had them hemmed wearing a pair, the nice thing about this cuffing trend is that it gives some room to play around with length. I’ll wear mine for a week and find what works best, then if necessary, have them hemmed again. Over all after the first fitting I felt these were spot on, no overly tight areas, perfectly cut through the waist and no awkward bunching or bagginess.
I’m thinking a dual age progression with J is looming in the future..
The final fitting: J tried on his Den.m bar bespoke jeans for the first time. Notice even on a bigger athletic guy some tapering in the leg is still important, two inches from the thigh to the leg opening works for most people, that coming from Flusser’s Making The Man. Also with cuffs or those english vegetables, turnups, its critical to make sure they are cut to a length that works with a majority of the shoes you wear. On the first fitting J wore his boots and had the hems cut a little longer to work with sneakers as well, judging by the pictures he did pretty well.
from J: “They nailed the length perfectly, I wanted an all around pair that would look good with low cut vans as well as boots, and they did it…the fit feels better than any jean i’ve tried….but I’m not use to the stiffness of the fabric yet. Kinda like a hot chick who is a cold bitch at first, but once you get to know her…”
Bobby’s, 1st fitting at Den.m Bar
Putting on my pair for the first fitting was a strange experience, it’s an adjustment putting on an unfinished garment and verbalizing what you think needs to be done to perfect them. Like any bespoke garment, the first fitting is going to be a loosely stitched “rough draft” of the finished product, as drastic changes are expected and it’s easier to remove excess and nearly impossible to add length. I had the width of the leg and waist taken in and the crotch adjusted. What I’ve come to look for in any pair of pants is a clean profile, a proper waist/rise, and to always make sure the pockets, both front and rear aren’t overly stretched or ballooning out, a common problem with the slim fit trend.
While Zack (Den.m Bar’s fitter) is a true professional and knew all the right questions to ask, it’s important to head into a fitting with a mental checklist, both of what can and can’t be altered and what the proper fit and silhouette look like on you. While you can count on a bespoke tailor to guide you, keep in mind each tailor is going to have their own style and they are going to make suggestions in tune with that.
J again for his first fitting at Den.m Bar, he came in wearing his new deadstock Wolverines, which I will cover later.
Without going into too much detail its important when trying something on or having it altered, to gear your outfit towards what you would normally wear with the garment. In the case of pants wearing the shoes you would pair with them is critical so you can have them hemmed to break properly. J decided to bring in the waist slightly and let out the area around his pockets, but the rest of the fit was spot on for him. Keep in mind what is currently popular might not work for you, you should always follow your own body before the latest trend.